It has an ultra-high 14 stops dynamic range, ultra-low 1. It is a camera born from the appeal of astrophotography lovers. We have been working hard to reduce the weight of the camera while improving the performance of the camera.
This is a 26MP camera with a small pixel size of 3. This significantly improves the image sharpness and contrast, and the color changes are smoother and more natural.
It has retained the advantages of CMOS image sensors such as low power consumption and high-speed operation. A back-illuminated structure minimizes the degradation of sensitivity to optical angle response, while also increasing the amount of light that enters each pixel due to the lack of obstacles such as metal wiring and transistors that have been moved to the reverse of the silicon substrate.
Sony has newly developed a unique photo-diode structure and on-chip lens optimized for back-illuminated structures, that achieves a higher sensitivity and a lower random noise without light by reducing noise, dark current and defect pixels compared to the conventional front-illuminated structure. When the gain value isthe magical HCG high gain mode is turned on, the readout noise is greatly reduced, and the dynamic range is basically unchanged.
It is recommended to set the gain to 0 or gain in deep space. Which means s exposure can only cause 0. Under long exposure, it effectively avoids frame dropping and greatly reduces the glow effect caused by slow reading speed. There are 4 different standard for different contury, please choose it carefully.
Our website has newest camera drivers and many DSO and Planetary capture softwares. Please make sure the newest driver and software has been installed before you start shooting:. Before first usage of this product read Manuals and install correct Drivers and Software. Our planetary cameras are among the most used planetary cameras in the world.
Ideal for all amateur astrophotographers working in the field. ZWO Atmospheric Dispersion Corrector significantly improve the quality of images or you live image in eyepiece. Mandatory for serious planetary observing and imaging. We guarantee the highest quality and technical support for all ZWO products.
Trusted by astronomers all around the world. Amazing Craftsmanship, Lightweight body, Solid image quality: We have been working hard to reduce the weight of the camera while improving the performance of the camera. The unique dark current suppression technology can even further reduce dark current noise. Please note that buyers are liable to pay tax involvedsuch as Import tax, VATcustoms handling fee, etc. The additional fees may be collected at time of delivery by courier.
For best local service we advise customers buy our cameras form local dealers. If we confirm you can get a replacement, goods must be returned with all accessories, instructions, etc and must be suitably packed.This is easily one of the best color cameras I have ever used for astrophotography, and my go-to choice for a night of deep sky imaging.
Over the past year, I have used this camera extensively through a number of telescopes in the backyard and beyond. The photo was captured under the dark skies of the Cherry Springs Star Party in This camera is responsible for my best deep sky images to dateincluding the photos shown below. It is the best camera I have ever personally used for astrophotography, and I continue to use it to this day. This camera works exceptionally well with broadband light pollution filters, and narrowband filters.
Many people will advise you not to use a color camera with narrow bandpass filters such as H-alpha or OIII, but I have found the MC Pro to perform extremely when used with a duo-narrowband filter. You can also see exquisite example images with this camera on Astrobin. I can safely say that I now know exactly what the ASIMC Pro is capable of, and some recommended settings that you can use for a successful image. This OSC One-shot-color camera performs exceptionally well in both situations.
The idea of capturing narrowband images with a color camera is something that is generally advised against in the astrophotography community. This is because a color sensor will essentially record about one-quarter of the detail a mono camera would.
This has the power to build gorgeous deep sky images like the Eagle Nebula example below in a single shot. This is a great feature to consider if you plan on diving into this type of visual astronomy. Because I am obsessed with collecting images, the only time I experience a glimpse of this feature is when I am framing my target!
However, a new backfocus distance is needed between the camera sensor and the top surface of the lens group cell. To achieve the required spacing of 29mm for the RASA, I used a Starizona filter slider drawer to give me some added backfocus. Instead, I use an application called APT Astro Photography Toolwhich allows me to control every aspect of the camera from the cooling temperature to gain. For me, the hardest part was getting used to controlling the camera entirely with external software. The change in image file formats from.
RAW to. FIT was also a bit of a hurdle early on. Luckily, DeepSkyStacker is well suited to stack and de-Bayer this image format into a high resolution.
TIF file that you can process in Photoshop. As you may know, noise is a big issue to deal with when taking long exposures at a high ISO. This results in images that are virtually free of thermal noise. The pixel size of the ASI is 4. In the amateur astrophotography community, a general rule of thumb is to use a pixel scale that is between 1. This is simply a rough guideline and should not be taken too literally.
The math for calculating the pixel scale of a particular camera and telescope combination is:. Theoretically, under sampling can lead to blocky or pixelated stars in your image, although in reality I have never known this to be a noticeable problem in any of my telescopes.
Compare this to the Sky-Watcher Espritwhich provides me with a pixel scale of 1. The camera is connected to my computer via a USB 3.ZWO have been synonymous with creating high quality, yet affordable cameras, since their entry into the astro imaging world in So much so that after a visit by him to New Zealand, Sam and I struck up a dialogue on how some active imagers could help support his efforts and so I got involved with the ZWO product development team.
I will also add that I did not get paid in dollars or in kind for this review, I and the others provide our input as we enjoy the ZWO product set and are keen to ensure they include the features that any active astro imager would want. The camera took the astrophotography world by storm thanks to the high sensitivity and low read noise of the chosen ASI sensor.
May marked another major milestone for ZWO and arguably the biggest to date, with the release of the ubiquitous ASI series of cameras. This truly winning combination is seen on many selected Images of the Day and for good reason.
These cameras feature an all new integrated design with built in filter wheel, a first for ZWO.Back Focal Distance \u0026 Your Telescope Image Train for Astrophotography (Not Funny)
There is a lot more to the GT range than a simple re boxing. This extremely well-known CMOS chip has a read noise of 1. The ASIGT has a much smaller pixel size which should be taken into account when reviewing these two cameras side by side.
It has a read noise of 1. I was glad to see this has been retained even with the compact size GT cameras. The first thing that is striking is the new look. The ASI GT range now features an all new compact body that houses an integral 5 position filter wheel capable of carrying 1. Its beautifully compact and beautifully constructed. Important Note: The thickness of the 1.
Access to the filters is via the front cover plate which is held in place by 4 screws. The cover plate has a 42mm T thread fitted to it and the housing is milled out of aluminium and is nicely anodised, yet remains relatively light weight, thanks to the use of modern high-grade aircraft aluminium.Demon hunter artifact havoc
The new integrated design is a squarer package than the normal soda can sized ASI cameras and measures mm x mm x 60mm and weighs just over g. The red anodised rear face now houses 2 maglev fans which are set into the cooling fins and this improved heatsinking has created an a much-improved cooling capacity which has now increased to c below ambient.
I found the camera cooled down much faster and that is due to the improved cooling capability of the GT style body. This is rated at 3A dependant on the DC power supply being capable of supply the camera and this connector at the same time.Gradadmissions reddit
Installation of the filters is similar to the process on the EFW filter wheel but requiring removal of the front plate and either screwing in the 1. One of the great things I love about ZWO cameras is that everything you need is included in the box and the ASI GT range are no different, with a set of filter masks and screws are included in the kit.
Mounting the camera was easy with the included adapters. ZWO cleverly include adapters and extension tubes to reach the most common back focus distance of 55mm. Something the ASI would struggle to do. Darks showed no issues with noise or patterning and cooling was faster and able to reach temperature quickly even indoors.
Longer dark tests revealed a nice clean frame and no signs of noise.Notice: About small format, etc. The pacakge does not include some adapters, please take a look at the diagram of package list in product description.
Note: The total back focus length of this solution is 56mm; The two adapters T2-M48 Note: The total back focus length of this solution is 56mm; The T2-tilter need to be bought separately. Note: The two adapters T2-M48 When using an heater band additional 0.
I need help figuring out the correct spacing configuration so both cameras are in focus. Thank you. You need to know the back focus of your reducer or flattener, and arrange the back focus.
ZWO ASI120MM-S Monochrome CMOS Astrophotography Camera
The camera came with one ring installed but several more in the box. Can you give any guidance? This is sometimes necessary when looking for a star near the edges of the guide camera image. Do I need to accept this?
The backfocus should be 55mm. You can have a look. We recommend you to find a place in the image train to place the filter. How to deal with extra filter in case if there is no EFW? I have color camera. For other filters you may need to find a place. Please help 1 0 Katherine Tsai March 15, at pm Reply If you want to fit the MC into the 55mm back focus, you need a 5 mm extender to match the distance of How do I reach the 55mm required for my flattener?
Is 55 mm back focus a maximum? What if my camera is further back than 55 mm.? You have to calculate the back focus in accordance to the specification given by your telescope, in your case;ES mm scope and a focal reducer. Thank you for you help Andrew 0 0 Katherine Tsai March 5, at am Reply You can refer to our 56 mm back focus solution, it is all considered into it. The diagram shows 56mm just mechanically and any filter, as you said, is going to add another 1mm more like 0. So the train is pushing 57mm.
Am I missing something?Used with the 5mm extender it is suitable for cameras with Without the 5mm extender it is suitable for cameras with You can also fit a 2" IR-Cut astronomy filter within the adapter filter not included.
All goes together very snuggly and works a treat. And yes, FLO service it was excellent with fast order processing and delivery. Thank You. Feels a solid bit of kit Hadyn - IOM. Great support service as usual, fast delivery. Well made product. Great to have this option with the zwo camera, with a fast lens this will be a good quick set up on my skywatcher az gti, shirvavideo astronomy forum, proboards.
Ask a Question Ask a Question. Great bit of kit!Dr marcos soto cuevas
Great service. Zwo to eos adapter. If you are requesting a price match please let us know the URL where you have seen the product cheaper. Related Products. Follow us:. Join our mailing list: Signup.
ZWO ASI294MC Pro Cooled Color CMOS Astrophotography Camera
Wish List. Covid We are open for business as usual. Some deliveries are a little delayed. All deliveries are contact free. Out of stock due working days. URL of the Cheaper Price:.Sign up to receive sale alerts, news about upcoming celestial events, and telescope tips from our experts! Back focus is the distance from the end of your eyepiece drawtube to the focal plane of your telescope.
It varies greatly depending on the type of telescope:. Back focus directly impacts your ability to use accessories with your telescope. With limited back focus, you may not be able to use Barlows, focal reducers, binoviewers, SLRs, and 2 in eyepieces.
Combining accessories can also cause back focus problems. Focal reducers also reduce back focus and, when used for prime-focus photography with an SLR, there may not be enough back focus left to accommodate the approximately 50 mm needed for the camera body.
This is true even with an SCT's long back focus distance. For refractors, a related issue is back travel. A solution that works is to use extension tubes, such as a star diagonal--it acts as a drawtube extension. Another situation you may encounter is focal plane access when combining various accessories. Why don't the images I see through my telescope look the same as photos I see taken with the same type of telescope?Bee swarm simulator test server codes
The reason photos look better than what you see with the unaided eye is due Love Astronomy and Saving Money?
I agree required. It varies greatly depending on the type of telescope: Schmidt-Cassegrain telescopes SCTs typically have generous back focus distances of approximately 5 in. Similarly, Maksutov-Cassegrains Maks also have large back focus distances.
Newtonian reflectors have much smaller back focus distances, sometimes as little as in. Refractors usually have large back focus distances; their long drawtubes can travel well inside focus, too. Next Up Why don't the images I see through my telescope look the same as photos I see taken with the same type of telescope? May 1, The reason photos look better than what you see with the unaided eye is dueFirst of all, what is back focus?
Or this metal back distance? It doesn't quite have the same use in astrophotography as traditional astronomy, nor is it in reference to a Norwegian metal band. Instead, metal back distance has to do with the spacing requirements when using any sort of corrective optics. A note about the terminology when discussing this topic: the necessary spacing for an imaging train has been described using different terms, including "Metal Back Distance" and "Back Focus.
ASI2600MC Pro (color)
We are going to simplify it here and say this: what we care about is the distance between the last lens element in your system to your camera chip. Corrective optics are additional pieces of gear that help fix optical aberrations that are present in most telescope designs. For example, refractors suffer from field curvature, and so need field flatteners to correct for this. Newtonians often suffer from coma, and so a coma corrector is used.
These pieces make it so that your stars are pinpoint and your images are sharp across your entire sensor. As a note, telescopes that are designated as "astrographs" have these corrective type elements built in, or are well corrected through their design such that no additional corrective optics are needed.
There is more to consider when planning and connecting your full imaging train. These corrective optics work best at a specific distance away from their glass elements, most commonly 55mm. If your camera chip is too close or too far away, then the elements will not actually perform their intended corrections. If your sensor is say at 48mm or at 67mm away, you may still see curvature, or still have coma affecting your images. To get the most pristine final images, we can help you figure out the distances in your entire imaging train and get the adapters as needed to ensure your camera is at the ideal distance from your corrective optics.
You first need to know the metal back distance requirement of your telescope or corrective optic piece. Then, add up the spacing distances of all of your pieces in your optical train to your sensor.
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This includes the depth from the front of your camera to the chip itself, the depth of a filter wheel or off-axis guider, and the depth of any thread size changers. If after adding all of that up you are short of the ideal metal back distance, you need additional spacers. If you add all of the above up and you are too far away from your corrective optics, you will need some thinner adapters or accessories, or figure out a corrective optic that provides more metal back distance.
We've created a drop-down tool below to be able to help figure out what your spacing requirements are on your system. It should now be easy to calculate the precise spacing adapters that will unlock the full potential of your imaging train.
Below the drop-down tool is a set of common M42 and M48 spacers to help get you on your way to sharp images. If after inputting all of your values you require some spacing that is not available with the standard spacers, never fear! Contact us and we can help design and order a custom adapter for any imaging train requirements. My images with the above configuration have stars in each corner pointing towards the center of the sensor and heavy vignetting, so it appears I need to add more space.
If I am correct can you let me know how much additional space I need to add? I am embarrassed to say that I have been trying to figure this out for over 3 months. Any assistance you can provide would be very much appreciated.
Hi, I like your backspace calculator. I went to see what my backspace would be for my FSQ with the 0.
Could you help me find the value for that camera? Thank you, Dominic. Thank you for the kind words! You are very close on the calculations for back focus requirements.
One thing that is a little different than what you have in your question, is that the substrate thickness of a filter actually replenishes the back focus consumption of your imaging train. This means you have 35mm of back distance remaining.
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